Summer 2019 is in full swing and we’re starting to eye up catwalks presenting Haute Couture SS20 collections. And though there are the weird and not always so wonderful shows, it’s got to be said that some designers just pull it out of the bag each time, such as Jacquemus. Named as the fashion industry’s “most Instagram-saavy designer” by Vogue, it may be enough to raise a few eyebrows and wait for the spectacle of the ridiculous, over-the-top outfits to begin, but wait a minute, give him a chance!
Wanting to show that there is a lot more to France than just Paris, Jacquemus decided to set his latest catwalk, Le Coup De Soleil (or sunstroke) in the atmospheric Valensole, Provence, in the South of France. It has been proven in the past that he loves to disrupt the industry – in his very beginnings, he presented catwalks outside of Dior during Fashion Week, now, he’s taking the catwalk to the countryside, and it was a project close to home, as he was brought up in the area. A homecoming seemed like the perfect touch to celebrate his brand’s 10th anniversary. The aesthetically-pleasing lavender fields seemed like the right fit for his shows too, against his pastel color palettes and hot pink runway.
As for the collections… mesmerizing is the right word. Yes, there were hints of sportswear, and extravagant pieces – you can’t avoid it, but the clashing of prints, the juxtaposition of bold and more subtle pastel tones, against that spell-binding backdrop. It was playful, elegant and sometimes sexy for the women’s collections, the men’s was street-wise, cool and versatile, there’s even a few pieces we wouldn’t mind for ourselves! All in all, the collection was bright, youthful, fresh and as bold as the runway it took place on.
Of course, the infamous Le Chapeau Bomba – resized and made more wearable for you and me – made an appearance in vibrant hues and helped models make a statement. It’s the extravagant hat you need to cruise along the Riviera sipping on rosé. There were also a staggering 35 prints in this collection – but somehow, the collection doesn’t seem messy or chaotic, the balance there has been just right. Even with vibrant tones thrown in, it just works, like some kind of magic potion, and Jacquemus is the sorcerer.
Though it has been named “the most Instagrammable catwalk ever”, that was far from Jacquemus’ goal. In fact, he wanted to have a catwalk take place closer to home and was inspired by David Hockney’s The Arrival of Spring in Woldgate, East Yorkshire of 2011, and the bold pink and purple tones helped him turn the painting into some sort of fashion-related reality.